Sea Gully

General Information:

Steep face climbing on compact, often featureless, walls and soaring aretes. The rubble on the gully floor gives the crag a slight quarry like feel, however, this does nothing to detract from the stunning setting of sea cliff routes a long way above the floor.

Its worth noting that even on days when Technical Wall is crammed with people, Sea Gully will still almost certainly be deserted.

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Sea Gully - Entrance Wall:

1 - Ah Lun's Route - F6a

Climb the obvious crack line on the right hand side of the mouth of the zawn. F.A. Ah Lun (1995)

2 - Unknown Australian - F7b

The blank wall to the left of Ah Lun's Route has a couple of horizontal breaks splitting it but little else. However, getting between them poses a problem or two. Bolted by Ah Lun (1995) and climbed by an unknown Australian around 1996/97.

3 - Prisoner of War - F6a+

An awkward and uninspiring route up the crack and groove at the left hand side of the wall. F.A. Ah Lun (1995)

4 - New Moon - F6a

Climb the blocky wall to the left of the previous route. Beware of loose rock. F.A. Danny Ng & Wong Yee Ping (1992)

5 - Full Moon - F6a

A minor variation to the central part of New Moon. F.A. Danny Ng & Wong Yee Ping (1992)

6 - Green Slab - F6a***

A delightful climb up the slab and arete at the start of the terrace.
From the small corner step left onto the slab and climb this, staying as close to the arete as possible. F.A. Danny Ng & Soloman Lau (1992)

Sea Gully- The Terrace:

The following climbs all start off the terrace that splits the face at approximately mid-height:

7 - Hings Project - F7c

Follow the line of bolts (being as there's next to no holds to follow!) on the left hand side of the arete. Bolted by Lau Kung Hing (2000)

8 - Chime of Dog - F6c+**

The first of the climbs starting from the terrace which cuts across the wall at mid-height.
A few hard moves up the face and past the first bolt lead to a shallow groove. Follow this and climb up the large flake before stepping right and climbing a short corner to the lower off. F.A. Saito (1990)

9 - Echo of Dog - F6c+***

Follow Chime of Dog to the large flake. Head straight up from the top of the flake and climb directly through the roof above. F.A. Danny Ng (1993)

10 - Lung Tsang Fu Dou - F7b+ **

Start on the same block as for Echo of Dog. Swing left to good holds left of the crack. Move up to good layaways in the crack and make a big reach right to side pulls (also used on Echo of Dog) From the side pulls reach up and use two small pockets in the wall above before swinging back left into the crack. Re-establish yourself in the crack (crux) and move up to where 'Its a Sin' joins. Finish up this. F.A. Colin Spark & Stuart Millis (2003)

11 - It's a Sin, Steal the Sky - F7a+**

Start well to the left of Echo of Dog at a small step in the terrace.
Climb up the right hand side of the large flake to good (but hollow) holds at its top. Make thin moves diagonally rightwards on small crimps and a drilled pocket before stepping into the obvious diagonal crack. Climb this to the top. F.A. Danny Ng (1994)

12 - Logical Progression - F7b*

Climb up to the ledge on the left hand side of the large flake of It's a Sin. Climb the thin crack in the wall above. Protection comes in the form of a small friend (size 0.5) and a few pre-placed micro-wires in the crack. Leave gear to lower off or move left to the bolts at the top of Route 13. F.A. Stuart Millis & Colin Spark (2001)

13 - Crossroads - F6c+**

Climb the shallow groove and mantle onto the ledge. Start up the thin crack and, when possible, make a long stretch left into a shallow groove and follow this to the top. F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

13a - Epiphany - F7c+***

Climb the shallow groove to the ledge. Hand traverse left on small crimps until difficult move up bring a small pocket. Make long moves left (hard for the short) before continuing up the wall above on positive but well spaced crimps to a good, but slightly suspect feeling flake. From here a technical and insecure sequence brings the top. F.A. Stuart Millis (2008)

14 - The End of the World - F6b+***

A superb climb in a stunning situation.
From the end of the terrace make a short traverse left along a foot ledge. Climb a short crack to a small ledge before moving back right on to the wall and arete. Climb a short way up this before following a small groove line in the wall itself. F.A. Danny Ng (1993)

15 - Ultraviolet Light My Way - F6c+***

Follow End of the World to the small ledge. From here climb the overhanging corner above, moving onto the left hand arete near its top. F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

16 - Solomon Corner - F6a+

Climb the corner to the left of Ultraviolet, using the arete to the left in the upper section. F.A. Solomon Lau (1995)

17 - Java Jive - F6b+**

From the second bolt of Solomon Corner bridge out wide and make a big swing left using a good jug at the lip of the overhang. Follow the crack above to the anchor. F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

Sea Gully- Under the Terrace:

The following routes are all reached from the gully floor:

18a - Big Cat Diary - F7a+

Climb the wall and groove on the right hand side of the pillar. F.A. Rocky Lok (1997)

18 - The Blade - F7a***

A superb arete climb with gradually increasing difficulties all the way to the top.
Start near to foot of the gully, beneath the start of Crossroads. Climb the shallow groove, using the aretes on either side, to the small overlap. Make difficult moves through this and climb the wall above to finish on the terrace. F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

19 - Waffer Wavers - F7a***

Another excellent slab climb up the wall around the corner to the left of the Blade.
Start up the short corner to the left of the wall. As early as possible begin traversing out rightwards onto the slab itself and climb this, making occasional use of the arete, to the overlap (tread carefully as some of the thin flakes are quite friable). Make difficult moves through the overlap (crux) and climb the wall and arete above. F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

20 - Roasted Pig - F6b*

Climb the obvious wide corner crack, trying not to get wedged too far inside it as you go. F.A. Unknown

21 - Heart of Grace - F7c/7c+ **

The wall to the left of Roasted Pig. Weave your way through the corners and overhangs to establish yourself on a good break half way up the wall. Traverse this to the right to a poor rest before a technical sequence leads back out left to good holds and, eventually, the top. F.A. Rocky Lok (2008)

22 - Sea Gypsy - F6b**

From the foot of the gully scramble across to the ledge of Central Slab (the large easy angled slab). Climb the blocky wall to the right hand side of the slab. F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

23 - Catch a Falling Star - F6c*

Climb up the middle of the smooth wall to the left of Sea Gypsy before joining this at the small ledge by the fourth bolt. F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sea Gully - Central Slab

A single bolted route and several traditional routes up two vast, easy angled, sweeps of rock.

1 - Central Slab Corner - VS 5a, 4c

This could give a good corner climb all the way to the top of the crag for someone dedicated enough to clean all the vegetation out of the crack.
Pitch 1: Bridge up the wet and vegetated corner between the slab and the steep wall to the right until a good crack breaks out diagonally to the left. Follow this, with increasing difficulty, across the slab and continue up and left to a good stance by some large bushes.
Pitch 2: Climb the left hand side of the slab to its top.
F.A. J. Ward & J.F. Bunnell (1958)

2 - Un-named - F6a**

Pitch 1: Start just left of the corner crack and follow a faint finger crack up the slab. After approximately 5m make some thin moves up and right to join a horizontal crack. Traverse right along this a short way until another crack leads back up. Follow a relatively direct line up the slab to belay on small ledges.
Pitch 2: Climb the slab above to the lower off. Descent is by two 30m abseils
F.A. Jacky Tang (2001)

3 - Central Slab - HS/VS 4c*

Pitch 1: Start in the centre of the slab and climb the crack line above, thin to start with but becoming easier as height is gained. Continue up the crack until it joins a larger crack and follow this diagonally up and left towards the arete.
Pitch 2: Move right from the belay and continue up the slab until a belay can be taken at the blocks near the top of the crag.
F.A. J. Ward & J.F. Bunnell (1958)

4 - Great Slab - HS 4c*

Pitch 1: Start at the base of an easy angled wall and move up onto a small ledge. Make an airy traverse leftwards along this until it is possible to climb up a large loose flake.
Pitch 2: Move right from the belay and climb the crack leading towards the left edge of the slab. Continue precariously up the slab with little in the way oof protection to a series of vegetated broken ledges. Continue up the left side of the slab to the boulders at the top of the cliff.
F.A. J. Ward & J.F. Bunnell (1958)

Sea Gully - Left Hand Side

A couple of very nice, long, routes up the most solid part of the left hand side of the gully and a route for all you contortionists out there throught the cave. Be cautious if new routing either side of these routes as the rock tends to be very loose.

Cave Route Left - F6a**

Start just right of the mouth of the cave and climb a groove to a small overlap. Pull through this on large holds and continue up the slab to an open corner above. Make technical moves up the wall just right of the groove and continue up this to a horizontal break beneath a small overhang. Traverse left along the break and pull through the roof at its left hand end. Continue up the technical wall above to ring bolts.

Tai Chi - F6a**

Start just right of the mouth of the cave and climb a groove to a small overlap. Pull through this on large holds and continue up the slab to an open corner above. Make technical moves up the wall just right of the groove and continue up this to a horizontal break beneath a small overhang. Move right, avoiding the overhang, and climb the wall above to ring bolts.

Daniels Dilema (naming these routes!) - F7c+

A truly bizarre route through the cave at the bottom of Sea Gully. Start on the left hand wall of the cave and climb up towards its roof. Continue through the cave using as many wierd and wonderful techniques as possible to exit onto the wall at its far side.

 

Sea Gully - The Far Side

Located on the far side of the cave, and accessed by abseil from above, is a short wall with a handful of routes. The position of the routes on the left of the wall is directly above the sea and offers ample deep water solo opportunity to those bold enough.....

1 - Take a Ride - F6a

Approach by scrambling left around the headland to the left wall of the cave entrance. Climb the loose white corner before moving right onto the orange headwall. Continue to anchors on the terrace above.
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

2 - Ah Lun Central - F6a+

A good continuation pitch from the anchors at the end of Daniels Dilema. Climb the central pillar, between the two caves.
F.A. Ah Lun (1993)

3 - Daves Route * * - F7a

Abseil 45m down the steep left (looking at it) side of the wall right of the cave to a semi hanging belay. From the belay climb up and left onto the very steep wall above. Continue up this.
F.A. Dave Hessledon (1995)

4 - Whistle in the Wind * - F7a

An alternative start to Daves Route that traverses in from the right, avoiding the hanging belay but adding considerable rope drag.
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

5 - Jacky Left - F6a

Climb the bolted line just left of the centre of the wall
F.A.Jacky Tang (1995)

6 - Jacky Right * - F6b

The bolted line just right of the centre of the wall.
F.A. Jacky Tang (1995)

7 - Wheel within a Wheel - F6a+

A relatively short climb near the right hand end of the wall.
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

8 - My Ideal * - F6a

The final climb up the wall gives an enjoyable pitch that is over all too soon.
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)