Kite Rock (a.k.a. Bagpuss Boulder)

General Information:

5 short sport climbs on the large boulder of extremely course volcanic rock located on a small knoll just above the main concrete path from the ferry pier to the happy noodle shop. More details of grades and descriptions will follow at a later date.

1 - One Flight Down - F6a+

Follow the shallow groove up the left hand end of the wall past a large pocket. A variation, On Line (F6a) follows the diagonal crack at two thirds height rightwards to the top of the boulder.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

2 - Kestrel ** - F7a

A short sharp route directly up the centre of the wall. A tricky start with few foot holds leads to technical climbing up the wall on small sharp pockets.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

3 - Thundering Typhoon * - F6c

The striking arete, climbed on its left side, gives a fierce technical outing. Somewhat of an eliminate, CBL Graffiti Maniac (F6b+), starts directly above the graffiti and follows a line of pockets to the diagonal crack.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

4 - Sans Serif - F5

Haul your way up the steep wall using an assortment of sharp flakes and pockets to an easier finish above. Basically, anything goes.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

5 - Its All Right - F6c

Start at the right end of the steep portion of the wall and follow large holds along the vague lip. Continue around the arete to finish on the diagonal crack round the cornere. Two ropes are advised to avoid excessive rope drag on the arete.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)