Temple Crag, Lantau

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General

Non-strenuous climbing, on high friction rock, with fantastic open views of the Lantau Hills, Cheung Sha and Pui O beaches and the Islands of the South China Sea make the up hill approach worthwhile. The crag faces west and dries very quickly after rain but it can get hot on windless mid summer afternoons.

Location

The two large, easily seen, buttresses on the hillside south of Pui O village are separated by a jungle gully (which is best avoided). Most climbs are on the left buttress (looking from the sea).

Grading

French grading is used for the bolted climbs and English grades for routes with traditional protection.

Approach Route & Maps

Catch the ferry from Central, Pier 7, to Mui Wo (Silvermine Bay) on Lantau Island. From the bus station outside the ferry pier either take the bus Pui O Village (as far as you can get on bus) or catch a taxi. In Pui O take the left turn onto Chi Ma Wan Road, continuing through Ham Tin and along the road some 700m further to the crest of the hill (au), "Shap Leung Kau Tsuen". On the left is a concrete driveway leading to houses and on the right is a Country Park sign.

Next to the Country Park information board, a well maintained path leads towards Lo Yan Shan. From the survey beacon on top of the hill, continue on the hiking trail for 80 metres to some stone steps.

Left Buttress Routes:

At the top of the stone steps turn right and go through bushes. Abseil bolts will be found on the lower left-hand corner of an easy angled rock slab (looking out to sea). A 30m abseil (mostly down easy ground) leads to a lower, fairly flat, rock platform with 3 sets of abseil chains (described looking out to sea). In December 2002 a stainless steel cable was fixed in position to safeguard the approach to the lower platform, hence allowing the first abseil to be avoided. When leaving, it is relatively simple to scramble out to the right (looking up the hill).

On the lower platform you are very close to the edge of the crag and some 70m above the ground. Protect yourselves and your belongings accordingly. Be particularly careful not to knock any rocks or stones down the cliff they could kill anybody below.

A spare 60m rope is useful for the abseils.

All Chains described as seen when looking out to sea:

From Right Abseil Chain

1 - ?? - 6a+

2 - ?? - 6b+

3 - Via Etrusca - F6a+ **

The climb starts from a good ledge near the base of the crag. Either abseil to the bottom of Tin Hau and scramble across to the ledge or abseil directl to the ledge from the belay stance at the top of the first pitch (60m rope required).
1. (6a)
2. (6a+)
F.A. G. Bigazzi & M. Predonzan. Jan 2005

4 - Tin Hau - F5 **

Bolt protected 3 pitch climb, up the middle of the slab. Abseil diagonally right (looking out) 24m to chain on a shelf, from these bolts abseil straight down the second pitch (25m) to a ledge with chain. From where another 25m abseil reaches the bottom stance, (or one 50m abseil). 1. (30m) Diagonally right and up to ledge. (6 bolts). 2. (26m) Short groove with pocket through overlap (crux) and up slab moving left or right at will. (6 bolts). 3. (25m) Easy rock diagonally right to Right abseil bolts (4 bolts).
F.A. M.Lancaster, A Halkyard, Au Yeung Kin, J.R Cohen Aug 2000

5 - On to Valhalla - 6a*

1 (25m) Start as for pitch 1 Tin Hau and follow bolts trending leftwards to a thin traverse back right below the belay. Stiff moves on the steep wall can be avoided by climbing farther left. (7 bolts). Finish as for Tin Hau.
F.A. P. Collis (2002 )
2. Follow a fairly direct line through a steep section above the bolted stance on to easier ground leading to the top belay of Tin Hau.
F.A. P. Collis & D. Hannah (2003)

6 - Silent Prayer 6a**

Abseil approach as for "Tin Hau" and continue to the ground. Bolt protected.
1 (25m) Climb up and left to an overlap. Follow this to the slab above and continue delicately right to a belay ledge. (7 bolts)
2 (25m) Climb off the belay and through some thin moves on dubious holds past the second and third bolts (silent prayer optional). Just above the fourth bolt step right towards blank looking rock where pockets appear to lead you back left to the next bolt. The steep section above can be taken on the right (more technical) or on the left (more butch). (8 bolts)
3 (15m) Follow the slab trending slightly left to the belay of Tin Hau. (4 bolts)
4 (25m) (Same as Pitch 3 "Tin Hau"). Easy rock diagonally right to Right Hand abseil chain on platform (4 bolts).
(pitches 2 and 3) Paul Collis, Eileen Jong, Dan Hannah, 2002 / (pitch 1) P.Collis, M.Lancaster 2003

7 - Jaqattack - F5**

Bolt protected. A 55m abseil to bolted stance left of "The Trough" and about 6m above the ground. (the abseil can be split by doing a short abseil to the chain at the top of first pitch then a 30m abseil, don't forget to KNOT THE END OF THE ROPE.1. (30m) Climb white slab left of The Trough, at first overlap (crux) move right, then step back left and straight up the slab. 2. (15m) Scramble diagonally left then up to the right to the abseil bolts.
F.A. M. Lancaster, Jaq.R.Cohen Aug 2000

8 - The Trough - Hard Severe

A 1956 route using traditional protection. The line follows the obvious gully/corner line between "Jaqattack" and "Keep The Faith". A 60 m abseil down the line the gully, start next to a tall thin detached block (don't stand underneath it). This is the original 1956 description.1. (15m) Up detached block then up the ensuing wall, where a hard move will tax climbers of shorter stature. Belay on ledge above . 2. (30m) Follow the line using either wall indiscriminately. At the top go left and up the arete.
F.A. Ward and Brunnell 1956

9 - Keep The Faith - F6b+ ***

A 60m abseil, following the line of "The Trough", to a bolted stance 3m above the ground.1. (50m) Follow bolts and move left below the overlap at 35m. Clip first bolt over the overlap with a sling to reduce rope drag. Stand up on small ledge at left end of the slab. The strong can go straight up from here but the best climbing is to step down and move right to a diagonal crease. Up the crease, then back left over the bolt to reach good holds above. Move back rightwards and finish directly above last bolt. Belay on bolts just to left. (13 bolts)
F.A. M.Lancaster, A. Halkyard, Au Yeung Kin Aug 2000

From Centre Abseil Chain

10 - Tchizee - E1 5b **

A crack line with reasonable traditional protection and 1 bolt. A 40m abseil leads to a 2 bolt belay stance on a slab some 10m right of Keep The Faith .1. (35m) Move diagonally right then back left to the prominent diagonal crack, step left then up steep wall moving right. Continue through a bulge and follow crack on slab to a rock over move. Trend right to a bolt runner at the right end of the head wall. Finish by a tricky move up and left from the bolt. (2 of each size SLCD up to Camalot 1 (Friend 2.5) plus a few wires, and extenders to reduce rope drag).
F.A. M.Lancaster, K. Noyes, C. Venetz 2000

From Left Abseil Chain

11 - Buddha's Birthday 6a+ **

Good climbing up the edge of the wall right of Tchizee.
A 35m abseil from Left Abseil Chain to a grassy ledge 6m right from start of "Tchizee". The route and or the abseil can be split at a ledge at 2/3 height. (13 bolts ).
F.A. M.Lancaster 2002

Right Buttress Routes:

The Right Buttress is a bit like the Curate's Egg "Good in Parts". Good climbing is broken by easy angled rock and ledge systems, which makes continuous routes difficult to find. There are several good short problems but so far only two routes on this buttress.

From the stone steps head directly out towards the sea. On the left is a narrow rocky ridge. Follow the ridge for 30m to an abseil chain on a shelf above a steep 8m high wall. A 25m abseil heading diagonally right (looking out) leads to a platform with 2 bolts. On the edge of the platform, there are 2 bolt abseil stations above each of the routes.

There are no chains on the platform abseil bolts, so take spare slings and screwgate carabiners for the abseils

1 - Kwun Yam F5 *

A 60m abseil from the platform leads to a small ledge with 2 bolt belay, or
From the bolts on the edge of the platform, a full 30m abseil to the belay at the top of the first pitch, then another 25m abseil. Knot the end of the rope and have a sling tied to your harness ready to clip the belay bolts.
1 26m Up fairly easily to a crux move by the 8th bolt, continue to small stance on left. (9 bolts)
2. 30m Move right and continue up the slab above. If you are finding it too difficult, move left. Finish up the flake to the right. (8 bolts)
F.A. M. Lancaster 2002

2 - Pilgrim F5+ *

A 30m abseil to the bush covered ledge in the centre of the buttress.
Start from a 2 bolt belay at right hand end of the ledge. (7 bolts).
F.A. M. Lancaster 2002

South Face, Right Buttress:

The following routes were added to the right hand side of the right buttress in late 2004 / early 2005. Approach as for the right buttress.

1 - Criminal Offense - F6b+

Six meters down the hill from the bolted route “Robbery”. Begin under a roof that is broken by a crack. Follow the crack up and over to a flake (crux). Follow the obvious crack to a large ledge and then climb the slabs to the chain anchor.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi (May 2005)

2 - Judge's Bribe - HVS 5a

A long and straight technical line up a well protected crack. Begin two meters to the left of the bolted route “Robbery”. Climb up a few meters to a short horizontal crack on a downward facing flake. Follow the thin crack system up to a ledge. Climb the larger crack directly upwards stepping up through a short unprotected area (crux) to reach a small crack for protection just right of the main crack. Continue up to the chained anchor of the bolted route “Robbery”.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, Matthias Predonzan (June 2005)

3 - Robbery - F6a+, 6a, 6b+

1 (20m) Begin near a face with a small corner. From the face, and first bolt, move left to rock over the top of the corner feature. Continue upward over ledges and to the left of a large crack.
2 (15m) From the anchor near the arête climb directly up the face and continue to an anchor on the left side (looking up) of a large boulder like rock.
3 (9m) Move directly up the left side of the boulder and step into the crack system in the middle boulder. Move up (crux) to take the third bolt and continue to the chain anchor.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi (April 2005)

4 - Jailbreak - HVS 5a, 4b, 4a

1 (20m) A brilliant, and well protected, crack line over a small roof. From the ground follow a crack up to a roof. From the block under the roof move left to the face (crux) and up to take the large crack. Follow the crack to the chain anchor of “Robbery” situated close to the arête.
2 (18m) From the anchor move left around the arête and then up to the left of the arête. At the ledge move far right and up to the chain anchor beneath the right side (looking up) of the boulder.
3 (12m) From the anchor continue up to the right of the boulder and finish at the anchor atop the boulder.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, (May 2005)

5 - Electric Chair - F6c, 6b

1 (18m) The first pitch is an unbolted project.
2 (12m) From the large ledge to the left of the large flake/boulder climb directly up the face. Continue directly up to the chain anchor at the start of the third pitch of “Robbery”.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, (May 2005

6 - Monkeys of Doom (Closed project with bolted anchors in place)

1 (8m) Climb over a roof and follow a thin crack to a bolted anchor.
2 (13m) From the bolted anchor climb the face right of the prominent crack. From the large ledge continue up to a chained anchor below the large boulder.
3 (9m) Climb the boulder using the crack in the middle of the boulder, and features on the right face, to a bolted anchor.

7 - Temple Monkeys - E2 5c, 4c

1 (20m) This exciting traverse begins under the slab (East Wall) that is to the left of the large open book corner running to the top of the crag. Climb up two meters directly beneath the slab face just to the left of the large open book corner. Move around a short overhanging corner to a four meter long horizontal crack (South Wall). Follow the crack until it ends. Using small ledges move towards the vertical crack (crux) and continue on and a little down to the bolted anchor below the large prominent crack.
2 (12m) From the bolted anchor climb the prominent crack. Tend left to take the top ledge and continue straight up to the anchor of “Robbery”.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, Matthias Predonzan (June / July 2005)

East Wall, Right Buttress:

8 - Rock Buffalo - F5+

Begin near the arête of the crag. Climb directly up to the slab and continue over a small roof and up to a large ledge. Climb a short face and follow a short gulley section to the chain anchor shared with the traditional routes to the right.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi (July 2005)

9 - Baby Fox - HS 4a

Begin under the slab to the left of the large open book corner. Follow the thin crack to the right of the slab to the open book corner and continue straight up to the chain anchor.
Dan Hannah (October 2004)

10 - Mama Fox - HS 4a

Two meters up the hill from “Baby Fox” a short corner leads up to some ledges with bushes. Climb above the ledge and follow a long thin crack to the anchor shared with Baby Fox.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, Matthias Predonzan (June 2005)

11 - Papa Fox - VS 4c

Two meters up the path from “Mama Fox” a short corner leads up to bushes and a large ledge. Above the ledge, follow a two crack system straight up to a large ledge. Continue to the very top , the last ten meters, via a diagonal crack. Belay from the original abseil anchor at the top of the crag.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi (June 2005)

12 - Temple Monk - HS 4a

Start at the south-east corner below the small roof and slab. Climb up three meters and over to a large rocky ledge. Follow the ledge (south wall) to a corner, or alternatively to a thin crack before the corner, and follow it up to the chain anchor serving the sport route “Monkeys of Doom”.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, Matthias Predonzan (July 2005)

13 - Drunk Monk - HS 4a

Start at the south-east corner below the small roof and slab. Follow the crack up to the small roof. Traverse just below the roof and step up to a ledge at the same level as the roof. Traverse the ledge (south wall) and climb up the chain anchor serving the sport route “Monkeys of Doom” This route crosses “Rock Buffalo” but it is not necessary to use the nearby bolts of that route.
Dan Hannah, Gianfranco Bigazzi, Matthias Predonzan (July 2005)