Gaping Zawn - Shek O

General

Superb wall all climbs protected by friends wires and nuts, No bolts. In recent times a line of bolts has appeared at the top of the cliff, presumably for easy access. We hope that this doesn't mean that someone is going to go back and bolt up the zawn. Please don't. The Sea should be fairly calm as the zawn acts as a funnel and huge waves can soak the whole wall. The wall will remain damp after fog or rain.

Approach

Routes 1,2 & 3 From the last barbecue pit on the right before the small pavilion on top of Tai Tau Chau. Scramble down and left to a large rock platform. Route 4 - Abseil in to hanging stance. Routes 5&6 - Approach from the right by low traverse. A calm sea helps! (alot)

Routes:

1 - The Newt and Ferret - E2 5b

Traverse the top of the wall left to right.
F.A. Mark Gray, Richard Spillet

2 - Groove Armarda - HS

Climb the first groove line on the left of the wall, starting up the large obvious leftward slanting crack.
F.A Unknown

3 - Monster Mozaic - E4 6b

Take a line directly up the thin groove at the left hand side of the wall, through the overlaps.
F.A. Glen Suttcliff and Pete Cresswell (1995)

4 - Lands End - E1 5b*

Step across the top of the zawn using a horizontal crack. Follow rising traverse and continue up by a series of laybacks to reach a flake on the top block. Swing out, move up trending slightly left to top.
F.A. John.Gosling

5 - Adrenaline - E1 5b

Start as for Lands End. After second overhanging block traverse right under overlap. A long stride right leads to a vertical crack, continue straight up this.Take friends.
F.A. J.Gosling,P Dockery

6 - Whose Line is it Anyway - E2 5c **

Awesomely steep crackline on RH side of main wall. Abseil in to hanging stance. Medium friends and wires.
F.A. Unknown.

7 - Suprise - E3 5c

Traverse in to bottom of steep crack follow this until at base of recess. Use finger crack on left wall to reach high continue to belay stance (5c). Move up step right across crack to belay (5b). Move up wall then traverse left to skyline. Swing low around the corner beneath overhanging boss, surmount this directly and follow to top. Very exposed (5b).
F.A. J.Gosling,P Dockery

8 - Original Route - HVS

The crack/corner line to the right of the face.
F.A. J.Gosling,P Dockery