Lion Rock - West Face

The first few routes are located on a small block just to the left of the main crag:

S - Sauriaphobia - E1 5b

Climb the grubby central crack to the left of Henry's Walk, using the overhanging crack on the right to start (Trad). Recently retro-bolted with a new, inferior, start to the left of the crack.
F.A. M. Puttnam & L. Griener (1994)

H - Henry's Walk - F5+

Follow the obvious leftward slanting crack line to just right of S before heading vertically up. F.A.
F.A. G. Pilcher (1995)

O - Obsession - F6a+

Climb the lefthand wall of the corner to the right of Henry's Walk.
F.A. G. Pilcher (1995)

P - Prelude - F4

Climb the easy slab up to the grassy ledges. Little in the way of fixed protection, can be better protected with wires etc.
F.A. G. Pilcher (1992)

Routes 1-7 all start at the top of Prelude.

1 - Wards Groove - F6b ***

The original line up the crag and still one of its most interesting lines.
Pitch 1 - F4+. Start up the grassy gully before trending right to blocks below a dark overlap. Follow a rightward trending flake to a belay at the base of a corner. Little in the way of fixed protection, can be better protected with wires, friends etc.
Pitch 2 - HVS 5b. Take the lefthand corner crack before swinging right to a belay just below the lions head. (Trad). This pitch can be avoided by climbing pitch 2 of Gweilo.
Pitch 3 - F6b. Climb up the crack and chimney directly above the belay.
Pitch 4 - F6a+. Step left from the belay, using the tree if necessary, and climb onto the righthandside of the lions head. Finish up the short wall above.
F.A. J. Ward & J. Bunnell (1958) - retrobolted sometime in the 1990's.

2 - Gweilo - F5+ ***

A Hong Kong Classic offering relatively amenable climbing in a stunning situation.
Pitch 1 - F4+. Start up the grassy gully before trending right to blocks below a dark overlap. Follow a rightward trending flake to a belay at the base of the righthand corner.
Pitch 2 - F5. Take the righthand corner crack, belaying on the ledge above (as for Wards Groove).
Pitch 3 - F5. Make a short traverse right and climb around the corner to a large ledge. Belay at its far side.
Pitch 4 - F5+. Climb a short way up the wall above before traversing right to a small tree (crux). Follow the grooves above to the summit. Rope signals should be prearranged for this pitch as communication is difficult.
F.A. G. Pilcher & T. Brown (1991).

3 - Space Odyssey - E1 5b

Start as Gweilo, up the grassy gully and stretch across to ledges on Wakiki Beach, move back left and up to small
ledge.Continue up (slightly left ) then go right to the Wakiki Beach belay (Bold).
F.A. Martin Foakes, Tim Brown 1994

4 - Scaredy Cat< - F6c+

Start as for pitch 4 of Gweilo.
Climb a up the wall before traversing right to a small tree, as for Gweilo. Climb a short way up the groove above before breaking out left across the wall to the arete. Swing around the arete (crux) and climb the wall above. It is possible to belay just after swinging around the arete in order to avoid horrendous rope drag.
F.A. P. Collis (2000) - with one rest point
F.F.A. S. Millis & A. Christensen (2002).

5 - Waikiki Beach - HVS 5a **

Start as for Gweilo pitch 1 and head left where the flake curves right. Continue up and slightly right to a ledge and abseil chain. (Trad) A good alternative start to Feline Phrenology
F.A. T. Brown, R. Wilkinson, & M, Eckhardt (1994)

6 - Reunion II - F6b **

Pitch 1 - F6b. Climb directly up the wall to the left of Gweilo, pitch 1 via a long reach to a small shelf and the crack above.
Pitch 2 - F6a. A fine alternative to Pitch 2 of Gweilo. Climb the arete and slab to the right of Gweilo Pitch 2.
F.A. M. Lancaster, G. Pilcher & M. Nichols (1992/4)

7 - Feline Phrenology - F7a **

Pitch 1 - F6b. Climb Reunion II.
Pitch 2 - HVS 5b. Climb the left hand corner crack, as for Pitch 2 of Wards Groove, but don't traverse right at the top. (Trad - small wires and friends)
Pitch 3 - F6c. Climb the cracks and shallow grooves in the wall above. Belay at the large ledge. A sustained pitch.
Pitch 4 - F7a. Move left and climb the undercut corner crack, very technical. Continue more easily diagonally across the slab above to a final exposed move.
F.A. M. Lancaster & F. Nell (1993)

8 - Walking on Sunshine - F7b+***

An airy variation to the final pitch of Feline Phrenology. From the ledge make tricky moves up and rightwards onto the Lions Head with nothing but thin air beneath your heals. Continue diagonally right until it is possible to rock round onto the final slab of Wards Grooves. Belay here and then finish up Wards Groove.
F.F.A. Rocky Lok or Jacky Tang (not sure who did it first??)

9 - Topcat - HVS 5b *

Pitch 1 - HVS 5a. Follow the obvious crack line, steep at first, moving left to a belay. (Trad)
Pitch 2 - HVS 5b. Move back to the crack, climb up easily to the blocks above makinmg a final hard move to the belay. (Trad)
F.A. Unknown.

10 - Aslan - E2 6a *

Start approx 5m. to the right of Prelude
Scramble up the grassy ledges and start up a short corner before moving right into the main crack line. Follow this to crux moves at its exit. Belay off to the left as for Reunion II, placing protection on the traverse to safe guard the second. (Trad)
F.A. M. Lancaster & R. Mugglestone (1993)

11 - Cats and Dogs - F6a+ **

Pitch 1 - VS 4c. Start up the lefthand side of the pinnacle and move left into a small crack/groove near its crest. Follow the groove right to a bolt (Trad).
Pitch 2 - F6a+. Fom the belay ledge climb diagonally right and then up to a short crack. Belay on the stance above.
Pitch 3 - HVS 5b. Follow the lefthand crack and then traverse right accross the slab to a large ledge and belay stance (Trad).
F.A. M. Lancaster & F. Nell (1991)

12 - Fickle Felines - F6b**

Start by traversing right from the top of Prelude to a new two bolt belay with abseil chains on a good ledge at the base of the main crack of Aslan.

Clip a bolt on the rib to the right then step right into Cats and Dogs for a move until it is possible to step back left to the rib. The same point can be gained by climbing directly up the rib but is more difficult. Move up for a few metres and then make a rising traverse rightwards (crux) to the edge of the Cats and Dogs belay ledge. Step left around the rib above and then climb insecurely in a fine position until easier ground and the abseil/belay station is reached.
F.A. P. Collis & A. Thomson (2003)

13 - Jet Roar - F6b+ **

Start up Catastrophe (Route 15) and move left to a small slab. Continue out left onto the face and then follow the groove above, exiting on its left (crux). Follow the awkward righthand crack line above. Belay above Catastrophe.
F.A. M. Lancaster & P. Dockery (1992)

14a - Hello Kitty< - F7a **

Follow the thin leftwards trending groove line to a tricky finish on the headwall above.
F.A. S. Millis & S. Yip (2004)

14 - Firecracker - F6c **

Climb the overhanging layback crack directly above the final belay of Cats and Dogs.
F.A. M. Lancaster (1992) - bolted by G. Pilcher

15 - Dancing with Fire - F7b+

Climb the line of old aid bolts directly above the ledge, traversing left to join Firecracker at the base of the groove.
F. F.A. Rocky Lok (1998)

16 - Catastrophe - HVS 5a

Climb the obvious chimney / crack, leaving only for a short section near the top.
F.A. Unknown

17 - The Arete - F6a **

Start just right of the main face at a small offwidth crack, jam up this to the ledge above - those not liking jamming or rope drag may wish to avoid this section and scramble up to the ledge. Stride left onto the arete and climb up it with minor excursions either side in search of holds, easy but very run out in central section. Keep left near the top and follow Catastrophe to the anchor.
F.A. G. Pilcher & M. Lancaster (1991)

18 - Groove Finish - F6b ***

A better alternative finish to The Arete is to move right into the groove near its crest and follow its righthand edge to the top.
F.A. M. Lancaster & P. Dockery (1992)

19 - Balance of Power - F7a **

A spectacular free climb up the line of the old aid route Gerbolt. The free line does not exactly follow the original line. From the belay of The Arete step right and climb the arete to the top of the obvious groove. Traversing about 3.0m right and climb up the wall above, past a single bolt, to a good jug and rest. Move back left on to the arete itself and make exposed moves past old bolts up to a sloping ledge, possible belay. Follow the arete and cracks to the summit.
F.A. S. Monks (1992)

Descent

Routes 1-10: Abseil down the line of Wards Groove / Gweilo
Roues 11-16: As for 1-8 if topping out. Abseil down the line of The Arete (30m)