Lion Rock - East Face

A - The Arete

B - Pussy Galore

Route 1 starts from the large belay ledge at the top of the arete:

1 - Balance of Power - F7a **

A spectacular free climb up the line of the old aid route Gerbolt. The free line does not exactly follow the original line.
From the belay of The Arete step right and climb the arete to the top of the obvious groove. Traversing about 3.0m right and climb up the wall above, past a single bolt, to a good jug and rest. Move back left on to the arete itself and make exposed moves past old bolts up to a sloping ledge, possible belay. Follow the arete and cracks to the summit.
F.A. S. Monks (1992)

The following routes all start from the base of the East Face. This can be reached by scrambling up the gully at the base of The Arete or by climbing up the easy angled slabs directly beneath the face.

2 - East Flake - HVS 5a

Approach by scrambling up the gully to the right of The Arete to a large platform.
Climb the large obvious flake up to the belay of The Arete.
F.A. J. Ward & J. Bunnell (1958).

3 - Rocky's Project?

4 - Austrian Staircase - F6a ***

Simply one of the best routes in Hong Kong. Start of the base of the obvious vertical flake.
Pitch 1 - F5+. Layback up the large flake, traversing right along its top, past the belay on Tigger, to a further belay stance on the far side of the face.
Pitch 2 - F6a. Move right from the belay stance to the foot of the groove lines and climb these to a short slab and corner. Move up the corner (crux) trending diagonally left and follow the cracks and grooves above. Belay on a large sloping ledge.
F.A. M. Lancaster & G. Pilcher (1992)

5 - Lion King - F6c **

A stunning line with some friable rock, however this is more than compensated for by the routes situation.
Pitch 1 - F6b+. Start as for Austrian Staircase (Route 4). Just before the top of the large flake traverse left for about 4m before continuing up via a tricky move to a hanging belay.
Pitch 2 - F6c. Climb straight up from the belay and follow a thin line of small holds, trending rightwards, up the wall above. Trend left higher up towards a leaning crack and small belay stance.
Pitch 3 - F5. Finish up the crack to the top of the crag.
F.A. M. Gray, M. Lancaster & G. Pilcher (1994)

6 - Tigger - F7a ***

An excellent line straight up the middle of the East Face. Due to its directness it is possible to climb the route in one long pitch (60m Rope). Start to the right of Austrian Staircase at the foot of the corner crack (Beware of bees who sometimes nest in the back of it)
Pitch 1 - F7a. Climb the short corner crack to a large sloping ledge. Step off the ledge onto the wall above and climb directly up via a series of thin crimps and rockovers to a large jug. Move right from the jug and climb up the thin roove to a belay stance on the traverse of Pitch 1 of Austrian Staircase.
Pitch 2 - F6b+. Take a direct line up the wall above the belay stance of Austrian Staircase. It is possible to continue slightly above and left of this belay adding a few more metres, but little else, to the route. A sustained and interesting pitch with some friable rock in the upper part.
F.A. S. Millis & K. Knoyes (2001)

7 - Stray Cat Strut - F5+

Start as for Pitch 1 of Tigger. Follow this to the large sloping ledge and continue rightwards along this until it is possible to pull on to the wall above, by the second bolt. Follow a series of small holds to broken grassy ledge level with the belay of Austrian Staircase. Continue up the steep face to the right of Austrian Staircase with minor excursions to the left and right. Going directly up the wall is unpleasant and increases the grade considerably (this section is also in need of cleaning).
F.A. K. Knoyes & K. Greenland (2002)

Descent

From Summit: Either walk down the lefthand ridge, footpath, or abseil the line of Wards Groove on the West Face.
Austrian Staircase/Tigger : Make two 30m abseils down the line of Tigger.