| Hopeless Buttress & Yellow
Wall
Approach
From
No.1 Fei Ngo Shan Road walk a short way up the drive way (private
road) until an obvious small track starts leading up the hillside
to the right. Follow this up the hill, going to the left when the
track splits, roughly level with the base of the crag. Approach
time approx. 30 minutes.
Make
a funny move past the 1st bolt before climbing
rightwards towards some overhanging rock.
Have a good rest before the last crux moves.
Climb
the poorly protected wall on the right hand
side of Hopeless Buttress via a slight rib
and narrow slab. Currently very vegetated
in the upper portion of the climb. F.A.
J Ward (1956) - a
F6a+ was bolted near to this line by Rocky
Lok in March 2003
F
- Facing Wind - F6b
Climb up the interesting slab to some even more interesting
moves at the end of the route.
1
- First Fighter - F7a+***
Start
on the righthandside of the crag directly beneath
a large, pointy, overhang. Climb the slab, making
thin moves at its top to join the overhang. Follow
the corner to the right of the roof to a lower off.
F.A. Rocky Lok & Tom Yau (2000)
2
- Ultra Marathon- F7a**
Follow
the obvious crack of Marathon (traditional protection)
until it is possible to make a rightwards traverse
beneath the roof. Follow First Fighter to the anchor.
F.A Tom Yau & Rocky Lok (1999)
A
classic trad climb up the obvious jamming crack. Climb
up the fist sized crack splitting the lower wall before
making a short traverse right at approx. mid height
and climbing the off width above. F.A. Unknown
4
- Little Marathon - F6c+
Start
as for the previous route but follow the initial crack
the whole way up the wall. F.A. Rocky Lok (2000)
A
desperate exercise in slab and wall climbing up the
hanging slab to the right of Marathon. Start at the
lefthand side of the small overhang to the left of
Marathon. Make tricky moves through this before continuing,
with extreme difficulty, up the thin wall above. F.A.
Rocky Lok (2000
6
- Dilligent Fellow - F7c**
Start
further down the crag at a slightly lower level, directly
beneath an overhang with an obvious crack splitting
it.
Pitch
1 (7c): Climb up the short wall before struggling
through the roof crack onton the face above. Climb
this to the belay.
Pitch
2 (6a+): Follow a relatively straight forward line
to the righthand side of the steep wall. Belay at
the tree.
Pitch
3 (7b): Make a short traverse right from the tree
before hard moves lead back out left to a good rest.
Make further hard moves up the wall above to the anchor.
F.A. Tom Yau (2000)
7
- The Second Street - F6b+
Follow
the obvious line just left of Pitch 1 of Dilligent
Fellow. It's advisable to bring along a selection
of trad gear as some sections are quite run out. Not
a particularly satisfying route F.A Tom Yau (2000)
8
- The Third Street - F6b
An
easier alternative line to the third pitch of Dilligent
Fellow. From the belay traverse right as for DF but
continue directly up the wall above instead of moving
back left. F.A Tom Yau (2000)
One
of the classic routes on Kowloon Peak.
Pich
1 - 3a - Climb easily through the slabs and bugling
walls beneath the Yellow Wall to a prominant corner.
Pitch
2 - 4a - Follow the corner system until forced rightwards
onto a narrow ledge. Climb the slab above towards
a belay at a tree in the corner.
Pitch
3 - 4a - Climb the crack line to the left of the belay,
past an overhang, until it is possible to move left
into a small grassy gully.
Pitch
4 - 4b - Make an exposed finger traverse leftwards
along the crack. Climb up from the large scoop on
the edge of the wall to the bottom of the slabs above.
Pitch
5 - 4a - Climb the centre of the two slabs above with
increasing difficulty. When the slabs steepen up,
by the second break, step left onto the arete and
follow this to the top of the crag.
F.A.
Corpral Christie (1956)
9
- Lightning in Yellow- F7a+**
A
short hard crux low down leads to easier climbing
up the lightning bolt on the right of the wall. A
couple of small to medium sized friends protect the
upper part of the route. F.A. Tom Yau (2000)
10
- Dream of Gold - F7c+
A
desperate climb up the middle of the seemingly blank
face of Yellow Wall. Start directly beneath the lightning
bolt and climb the wall to its left on tiny holds
past a crux at the third bolt. F.A. Danny Ng &
Terry Ng (1994)
11
- Yellow Direct - F7b+***
The
best route on the crag, if not Kowloon. Climb the
cracks and face to the left of Dream of Gold. F.A.
Danny Ng & Terry Ng (1994)
12
- Peace
of the World -
7b
***
The
‘Dream Climb’ of the wall. The crux is
located around the first three bolts and after the
last horizontal crack line. Rumoured to have been
climbed on traditional protection at a grade of about
E4 by Glen Suttcliffe.
F.A.
Rocky Lok and Tom Yau (2003)
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