| Devils Peak, Lei Yue
Mun - by Nick Smith
General:
Devil’s Peak is located in east Kowloon near Lei Yue Mun. The mountain
is also known as Pau Toi Shan which means “Fortress Mountain”.
This is an appropriate name as there are a number of old fortresses and
war related structures on the mountain, and it was the scene of a battle
in World War II.
In addition to wartime relics, there are also many walls, slabs, and
boulders on this mountain. Previous guides have described some trad routes
on the outcrops on the northwest slopes of the mountain facing Yau Tong.
Access to these crags is difficult as the old military path which once
led to the bottom of the slabs has since been swallowed by the jungle.
There is another group of slabs and outcrops on the Southwest slopes
of the mountain facing Lei Yue Mun with easy access to the top via the
Wilson Trail. These slabs have not escaped the attention of climbers,
and a number of explorations were conducted by various climbers over the
years. However, the lines offering natural protection are mostly rather
low angle and broken by grassy ledges. No routes were publicly recorded
and many climbers deemed the slab to be uninteresting.
Nick Smith and Alain Boulanger re-visited the crag in Jan 2007 and noticed
the potential for bolted climbs up the steeper and blanker sections of
the slab. Returning with a drill the pair set up “Special Forces”,
“Honorable Discharge” and “Exit Strategy” (on
the small upper headwall). Positive feedback was received from other climbers
regarding these routes and subsequently, additional routes were added.
Access
Access to the slab is easy. From Yau Tong MTR station exit A2 walk straight
ahead to the first intersection and turn left. Proceed past the large
roundabout to a road on the right that leads up the mountainside towards
the Chinese Cemetery. Walk up this for about 10 minutes until coming to
a flight of stairs on the left-hand side of the road. This is the Wilson
Trail and is well marked with signs. Follow the Wilson Trail to the top
of the obvious slabs.
A short abseil from the railing of the Wilson Trail provides
access to the bottom of the headwall. Alternatively, it is also possible
to scramble around the left-hand side of the headwall when facing the
harbor. From the base of the headwall, a short scramble down a faint path
leads to the top of the main slab. From here it is necessary to abseil
down the route of “Special Forces” to the bottom of the main
slab. A bolt anchor is available for this abseil, and a single rope is
just long enough.
This area offers excellent views of the harbor and fun non-strenuous
climbing. It is a pleasant place to climb in cool weather. It should probably
be avoided in the summer as the heat reduces the smearing ability of your
shoes and there is precious little shade available.
Routes
1. Honorable Discharge F5
Start by under-clinging and then mantling up onto the
right-hand side of the large detached arch at the far left of the crag.
This is loose and care should be taken. Alternatively, the arch can
also be climbed on the left-hand side. From the top of the arch, start
with a series of decent side pulls until a thin move right at the second
bolt leads to a shallow hole / dish. From here continue straight up
over progressively easier ground to the anchors. A bit run out at the
top.
F.A. Nick Smith, Alain Boulanger Jan 2007
2. Special Forces*** F5+
Start from the clearing just right of the large detached arch. The
route follows a direct line straight up to the anchors via a series
of small dishes and requires application of various "special forces"
- primarily FRICTION.
F.A. Nick Smith, Alain Boulanger Jan 2007
3. Battle Of The Bulge* F6b
Test the stickiness of your climbing shoe rubber as you battle gravity
on the steep lower section of this route, which begins about 5 meters
right and downhill from “Special Forces”. Smear with difficulty
diagonally up and left past three bolts until the angle lessens and
easier ground leads to a large hole in the middle of the face. Interesting
moves get you out of the hole and onto the slab above. For maximum enjoyment
continue smearing directly up the slab, or reach to the right and use
the crack as an easier alternative. F.A. Nick Smith, Alain Boulanger
Feb 2007
4. Not The Slightest Chance** F6a
Winston Churchill said there was "not the slightest chance"
of defending Hong Kong against the Japanese in World War II. Hopefully,
this climb may prove to be an easier task. Start below a small overhang
at a pocket. Climb the steep face directly up to and over the tiny overlap.
Then continue up and right to a bolt anchor near the large alcove. Belay
here, or proceed to the top of the crag via the upper portion of “A
Wing And A Prayer”.
F.A. Nick Smith, Joe Gray Mar 2007
5. To Hell And Back F6a
A scarier variation to "Not The Slightest Chance". Climb
the grooves / cracks beginning two meters right of "Not The Slightest
Chance". Follow these diagonally up and left until they merge with
Not The Slightest Chance at the small overhang. Delicate moves between
the first and second bolt. F.A. Nick Smith, Austin Smith Feb 2007
6. Balance Of Power F6a
There is a large obvious diagonal crack splitting the slabs. This
crack is mostly an easy scramble. However, this climb tackles the bottom
portion of the crack, which is more a set of shallow, rounded grooves.
A few difficult moves are required to get through this section and gain
access to the easier crack above. Continue up the easy crack to join
“Not The Slightest Chance”. Or, for a little more excitement,
run it out up and right to join “A Wing And A Prayer”.
F.A. Joe Gray, Nick Smith Mar 2007.
7. A Wing And A Prayer* F6c
About 5 metres right and downhill from "Balance Of Power"
is a steep shallow groove. Climb this to anchors at the large alcove
in the middle of the slab. End here or continue up the easy second pitch
to the top of the slab. Praying may not help, but you will definitely
need faith in your shoes. F.A. Nick Smith, Austin Smith Apr 2007.
8. Gin Drinker's Line F6a**
Start as for “A Wing And A Prayer” but move right onto
a large ledge. Climb up onto an obvious flake, clip the first bolt and
continue traversing delicately up and right using friction and small
slopers until you are able to pull up onto the large ramp leading to
the alcove in the middle of the slab. Scramble up this and then ascend
the wall of the alcove diagonally up and left until joining with the
upper portion of “A Wing And A Prayer”. Follow this to the
anchors.
F.A. Nick Smith, Joe Gray Mar 2007
9. Public Execution F4+**
Near the right-hand side of the slab is a faint corner with a seam.
The seam is shallow, smooth, and rounded and the rock is rather steep
and friable – adding to the excitement. A fun and direct line.
Begin by scrambling up onto a ledge at the far right-hand side of the
slab – just before the point where passage is blocked by the jungle.
Continue scrambling carefully up to the first bolt about 8 meters above
the ground. F.A. Joe Gray, Nick Smith Mar 2007.
10. With a Knife at a Gun Fight HS
Scramble up as for Public Execution, but traverse farther to the right
to reach a crack system separating the left and right portions of the
Main Slab. This is a few meters right of Public Execution. Insecure
protection is possible using cams in the flaring shallow cracks. Just
before the grassy ledge is reached, climb up onto the arête to
the left (just above the large loose boulder) and follow Public Execution
to the top. Do not climb on or under the large loose boulder as it (and
some large flakes under it) are completely detached and adhering to
the surface of the slab by friction only. F.A. Joe Gray, Nick Smith
Mar 2007
1. Exit Strategy F4+
The central line on the headwall. Large holds are available
on the left-hand side of the bolts until a harder move is required to
move back right at the third bolt. Climbing on the right-hand side of
the bolts increases the difficulty significantly (F5+ / F6a). FA Nick
Smith & Alain Boulanger Jan 2007
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