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The grade comparisons indicated in these tables will not always be exact.
Local anomalies exist within countries using the same system so attempts
to correlate between different systems, which frequently originated
around different styles of climbing, stand little chance of tying together.
If in doubt when visiting a new area, err on the side of caution, drop
a grade or two from that you'd climb at your local crag and get a feel
for the new area first.
Route Grading Systems
British Trad Grades:
Widely misunderstood by anyone but the Brits but actually a very simple and effective system.
This system contains two distinct parts, explained below:
Adjective Grade:
This gives an indication of the overall feel of the route. Routes with high adjective grades
and low technical grades will generally be poorly protected whilst those
with low adjective grades and high technical grades will be relatively
safe. Routes falling between these two scenarios will most likely have
a bit of both.
Technical Grade:
This records the level of difficulty of the hardest
individual move on the route.
French Sport Grades:
Originating in France with the birth of Sport Climbing (i.e.routes
with fixed protection), this grading system is probably the most widely recognised and used
system in the climbing world. The route grade reflects the overall difficulty
of the climb (being as fixed protection is used no consideration of
danger is necessary), although anomalies can occur with routes with
short hard sections getting equal grades to sustained technically easier
routes.
UIAA Grades:
This system was developed in Germany and Eastern Europe around the same time
as the French Sport Grades. It works in a similar anner to this and
is generally applied to Sport Climbs.
USA (Yosemite Decimal System) Grades:
The American System, originally developed in and around the Yosemite region
(hence the name) starts with a 5. prefix - which indicates the route
to be a rock climb, 1-4 prefixes being for routes/trails comprising
walking through to scrambling. The grading of the value following the
5. prefix again works
in a similar manner to the French Sport Grade. Additional letters are
sometimes added at the tail end of the grade to give an indication of
route nature, R = Runout, X = Dangerous, XX = Make sure your health
insurance payments are up to date!.
Australian Grades:
The simplest and most logical of all the grading systems. An open ended
scale that starts at the bottom and finishes at whatever the strongest
climbers in the worls are up to at that moment in time, no +'s or -'s
are used. Higher grades are used for routes which are technically easy
but difficult to protect than for those of the same technical standard
but with adequate gear. (Note: The grades indicated in the current table
are slightly out of sync. As a general rule minus two from the grades
indicated to correct this error. A new table will follow at a later
date).
Bouldering Grading Systems
V Grades:
Developed in Hueco Tanks, Texas, USA by John 'Vermin'
Sherman this grading system appears to be the gaining favour on an international
scale having already been widely adopted in the US, Australia and the
majority of Europe. The grading system is open ended, starting at V0
and currently extending to approx. V15, and relatively simple to use,
however, it does not cater very well for easier problems and the British
Technical Grade is found more appropriate for these.
Fontainebleau Grades:
As the name suggests, this system was developed in Fontainebleau, France,
and consists of both technical, font, grades and colour coded problem
cicuits. This system is only widely used in France, mostly around Fontainebleau
itself, and suffers from vast irregularities of grades at the lower
end of the spectrum.
British Tech Grades:
This system applies a numerical prefix accompanied with either an a, b or
c. The grade assigned gives an indication of the standard of the hardest
move on a problem. This means its great for very short problems where
there is no need to take account of moves already completed but effectively
useless for longer, more stamina orientated, problems. Due to their
less demanding nature this system is probably the best one to give an
indication of grade for 'easy' problems.
Sport Grades:
Some boulder problems, in particular traverses, contain more moves than alot
of routes out there. To account for their length, these problems are
occaisionally given sport climbing grades. Refer to 'French Sport Grades',
outlined above, for further details.
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